Jukkasjärvi, Sweden is my kind of small town: the dog-to-human ratio is in equilibrium (1,000 : 1,100). Also my species/speed: the hamlet, 200km north of the Arctic Circle, is home to the first and largest hotel built of snow and ice (a composite locally known as “snice”). Now in its 25th iteration, ICEHOTEL welcomes guests for cold encounters in artist-designed igloos followed by cozy stays in pine chalets. Even though winter gear is included in the suite price, I’d pack this fur coat to wear over the provided overalls. Would an icy slumber make me thaw?